Batch Cocktails Read online

  Text copyright © 2019 by Margaret Jane Hoffman.

  Photographs copyright © 2019 by Kelly Puleio.

  All rights reserved.

  Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.

  www.crownpublishing.com

  www.tenspeed.com

  Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Names: Hoffman, Maggie (Food and drink writer), author. | Puleio, Kelly, photographer.

  Title: Big-batch cocktails : make-ahead drinks for every occasion / Maggie Hoffman ;photography by Kelly Puleio.

  Description: California : Ten Speed Press, [2019] | Includes index.

  Identifiers: LCCN 2018046944

  Subjects: LCSH: Cocktails. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.

  Classification: LCC TX951 .H59 2019 | DDC 641.87/4—dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018046944

  Hardcover ISBN 9780399582530

  Ebook ISBN 9780399582547

  Styling by Maxwell Smith

  v5.3.2

  prh

  Contents

  INTRODUCTION

  ESSENTIAL TOOLS & TIPS

  HERBAL & FLORAL

  FRUITY & TART

  SPICY

  SAVORY & SMOKY

  BITTER

  BOOZY

  ALCOHOL-FREE

  SIMPLE SYRUPS

  USEFUL VOLUME CONVERSIONS

  HOW TO BATCH OTHER COCKTAILS

  COCKTAILS BY SEASON & OCCASION

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  INDEX

  Introduction

  If you’ve picked up this book, I think you’ll agree with me that cocktails are lovely. But over the many years that I’ve spent writing about drinks, I’ve learned that more than anything, it’s really the cocktail hour that matters. When you get a drink in someone’s hand and fill your own glass, you’ve arrived at a crucial, beautiful moment. You’ve set aside your work; your miles-long to-do list is on mute. There may be snacks, dinner will be served somewhere down the line, but for now, you can pause for a sip and a breath; it’s a time to catch up.

  But as anyone who has hosted a cocktail hour knows, there’s nothing worse than scrambling at the last minute, trying to mix drinks as your guests walk through the door. It’s hard to hold a conversation while searching for lost bitters, knocking over the jigger on the counter, and rattling a shaker full of ice (let alone trying to get the damn thing open). And without fail, just when you’re finally about to sit down, your friends are ready for a second round.

  This is why I’ve gathered together recipes of make-ahead drinks created by some of my favorite bartenders around the country: to set up that moment of calm. With this book in hand, you can make a bunch of cocktails all at once, in advance, and serve them without breaking a sweat. Most of these recipes yield eight or ten servings, but it’s easy to scale up or down depending on how many people you’re expecting. I’ll share the techniques and proportions you need to make cocktails that are every bit as delicious as what you’d find in a fancy bar—drinks that are way more sophisticated than the spiked lemonades and sherbet punches of your past, yet totally easy to execute.

  I hope you’ll use these recipes as an excuse to invite friends over, even if your house is messy, even if you don’t have enough chairs. Don’t fret over serving a perfect multicourse meal—order pizza. The drinks are made. They’re ready to pour. You’re not rushing around fussing and jiggering and shaking, being the frenzied “perfect” host. There’s nowhere else you need to be but with your people, sharing a glass or two.

  Maybe reclaiming a relaxing cocktail hour won’t save the world, but looking away from our phones for a minute to reconnect with actual human beings over a drink may very well save us from isolation. (And no, the drink decidedly does not need to have alcohol in it—some of my favorites from this book are in the booze-free chapter that starts on this page.)

  These cocktails are all crowd-pleasers, but I’ve organized them by flavor so that you can zero in on the one that may become your signature drink, or the one that’s just right for today’s mood. We’ll start off with light little herbal numbers for a sunny day (this page), plus a few more potent botanical options for martini loyalists. Then we’ll move into barbecue-friendly, tart, fresh, fruity cocktails (this page) and drinks that pack a spicy punch (this page). If you prefer your libations savory or smoky (maybe you’re into mezcal or Scotch?), there’s a chapter for you (this page), or if you, like me, have a weakness for all things bitter, I can promise you’ll find a winner starting after this page. Whiskey lover? Looking for something spirit-forward for a cozy evening by the fire? Those concoctions are in the boozy chapter that begins on this page.

  One more thing: Make-ahead drinks aren’t just for parties and entertaining. Many of these cocktails can be batched and stored in your refrigerator for a month or more (see this page)—which means you can sip away at them whenever the mood strikes. You can bring a full bottle of cocktails over for new parents who might need to declare cocktail hour as soon as their infant finally succumbs to sleep (and can’t risk the clattering noise of a shaking tin full of ice). You can prep a batch on a weekend and then have cocktails waiting for you the moment you get home from work for the rest of the week—that’s my kind of meal planning. Turn a quiet night into an indulgent one by pulling your stash of ready-made cocktails from the fridge. Then just pour and put your feet up.

  Essential Tools & Tips

  You don’t need a cocktail shaker for any of the drinks in this book. But there are a few items—and pieces of information—that will make serving big-batch drinks easier.

  SERVEWARE: PITCHERS AND SWING-TOP BOTTLES

  Most of the recipes that follow are portioned for a 2-quart pitcher. These sorts of pitchers can be easily found at kitchenware stores, but it’s likely that you already have something at home that’ll work. Start by measuring the volume of any pitchers you have around the house—just count how many cups of water it takes to fill them. As long as your pitcher can hold at least 8 cups, you’re good to go for 2-quart recipes. Don’t stress if the vessel you have is a little bigger. It’s fine to make these recipes as is; you’ll just have a little extra room. If you’re not quite certain that your pitcher is big enough for the batch, mix it in a larger container first, then pour the finished drink into your serving vessel. (The last thing you want is to discover is that your pitcher just doesn’t have space for the last cup of vermouth.)

  Consider, also, how many portions you want to have on hand: if you’re having a dinner party for four or six, a pitcher of ten cocktails might be plenty, though you know your friends and their drinking habits better than I do. For planning purposes, you can usually figure that guests will likely drink two drinks per hour in the first few hours of a party, and then slow down to one drink per hour. If you’re hosting twelve people for a Fourth of July barbecue but also serving wine or beer, you may not need to double the batch. (Or you may opt to make two different drinks instead.)

  If you’re hosting a larger crowd, pitcher recipes can also be sized up to fill a punch bowl or large standing drink dispenser. Some punch bowls hold just 2 or 3 quarts once a large ice block is added, but many of today’s drink dispensers range from 2 to 5 gallons. Of course, you don’t need something officially called a “punch set” to serve punch: A glass or ceramic bowl of adequate size can be paired with a regular ol’ soup ladle. Again, it’s wise to pour in cups of water to figure out the capacity of whatever you’ve brought home from the flea marke
t before you start mixing—this will also help you check for leaks!

  If a drink is meant to be served up (that is, without ice, usually in a stemmed glass), then a 1-liter swing-top bottle comes in handy, since it’s easy to stash in your freezer to get your cocktail really, really cold. These bottles seal well, so they won’t leak everywhere or let much air in, which makes them useful for both shorter- and longer-term shortage. They generally sell for less than $10 at home goods stores (and even some grocery stores). But if you don’t have one on hand and need cocktails urgently (I hear you), you can also fill a plastic water bottle or several mason jars with premixed cocktails. (One warning: I do find that plastic bottles are harder to clean and reuse.)

  MEASURING UP

  Bartenders traditionally use jiggers, which only hold an ounce or two, for measuring. For large-format cocktails, though, it’s more convenient to use a clearly marked glass (or plastic) liquid measuring cup with a handle, plus a small funnel for pouring into narrow-mouthed bottles.

  Before you begin, clear your space so you won’t accidentally knock anything over. Collect all your ingredients on a separate area of the counter or table so you can be sure you’ve got everything you need before proceeding. I probably don’t have to tell you this, but there’s nothing sadder than a batch of cocktails ruined by a clumsy overpour or spill. Never pour ingredients into a measuring tool held directly over your pitcher. Instead, set the measuring cup on an even surface, pour in the ingredient, and get down so the markings are at eye level. You’ll read the volume by looking at the bottom of the liquid’s smile-like curve, or meniscus.

  Experienced cocktail makers might be surprised to see these drink ingredients listed in cups, rather than the ounces or milliliters that are traditionally used for single-serving cocktails. In addition to allowing you to skip the jigger and use more common kitchen equipment, cups will serve you well for efficiently measuring larger volumes. (Still, if you’d prefer to use a jigger, you can find a conversion chart on this page.)

  SECRETS FOR BATCHING A WELL-BALANCED COCKTAIL

  Friends and readers often ask me if batching a drink will somehow make it too strong or too sweet. There’s an idea out there that somehow, large-format drinks are fundamentally less balanced. I’m guessing this isn’t just about people’s inability to multiply or measure; we’ve all had bad fruity punches at parties and large events, and the culprit is often premade shortcuts. Just as with individual cocktails, using fresh ingredients is essential when making larger quantities of cocktails. Sour mix is over. Squeeze some limes. And don’t buy shelf-stable lemonade—it smells like cleaning fluid.

  Often, though, the success of a large-format drink comes down to one crucial ingredient: water. The most common mistake is serving a too-strong and too-sweet cocktail recipe that’s been multiplied without any dilution in the mix.

  When a bartender shakes or stirs a cocktail with ice, she knows how long to agitate it to get the drink properly cold—and also properly diluted so that every ingredient will shine. Through this process, cold water has been added to every cocktail you’ve ever had—with very, very few exceptions.

  When you’re making batched drinks, you need to think about the water you’re adding, just as with any other element on the ingredients list, especially if you’re making a drink in advance and simply pouring it into a glass to serve. Sometimes, the proper dilution comes in the form of club soda or tea, and sometimes a spirituous drink can stand to hang out in a pitcher with a generous portion of ice. But in this book, most of the recipes will instruct you to add a certain amount of water to the batch before chilling. I’ve calculated and tested and tasted the proper dilution for each recipe in this collection, so they’re good to go. It’s worth noting, of course, that drinks will continue to dilute as they sit on ice, so the first sip may be a bit different from the fifth one.

  Can you use water straight from the tap? That depends where you are and how the water tastes. Some top bartenders swear by Acqua Panna or other brands of bottled water, while others think you can get by with whatever filtered water you drink at home. (Real talk: I use tap water at my house with no problem, but I wouldn’t pull that move everywhere.) Make your ice with good-tasting water too.

  Want to batch up a drink—perhaps an old favorite classic—that’s not in this book? You’ll find advice on this page for adjusting single-serving recipes to serve a crowd.

  COLD AS ICE

  There’s nothing that bugs me more than a drink with two measly ice cubes bobbing around in it. Ice keeps other ice cold, so the best way to enjoy a cold drink is to fill your glass—truly fill it—with as many handfuls of cubes as it takes. Same with a pitcher: If you’re instructed to add ice to a pitcher full of drinks, don’t skimp. Don’t float a few sad cubes in there—empty the tray already. Some of the recipes that follow call for ice in the pitcher and in the glass. This is because some pitcher spouts won’t allow a proper amount of ice out with the pour; use your own judgment and fill each glass as needed. If your glass is full of ice but not yet cool to the touch, you can give the drink a quick stir before you start sipping. While I’m bossing everyone around, here are some key freezer tips.

  DO give ice the time it needs to freeze. Freezer temperatures vary, but it’s best to get your trays of water in there at least six hours in advance. If you’re making a large ice block for a punch bowl, place it in the freezer at least a full day before you need it. Be sure you have plenty of ice trays, including a few that make larger (1- to 1¼-inch) cubes, which look especially sexy in rocks glasses.

  DON’T use ancient ice, though. Ice that’s stored next to food may absorb its odors and flavors. Make fresh ice at least weekly.

  DO ask a friend to bring a backup bag of ice if you’re not certain you have enough. You’ll need ice for refills of every glass, for filling the pitcher if called for, for any nonalcoholic drinks, and for chilling any coolers where other beverages are stashed.

  DON’T keep a batch of cocktails in the door of your freezer. Freezer door shelves are not always fully secure, and if the shelf goes, you may end up with a big mess on your floor, especially if you were using a glass bottle.

  DO use your freezer to chill a liter-batch of cocktails (in a sealed bottle or jar) if they’re going to be served without ice, but keep in mind that some drinks will taste better a little less cold. In a recent test, my kitchen freezer got a drink down to 33°F in an hour, 22ºF in two hours, and 11°F in three hours. I like a crisp three-hour martini variation, but I’m less wild about a crazy-cold drink made with whiskey or reposado tequila and sweet vermouth; some of the richer, deeper flavors seem muted at 11°F, and the alcohol itself seems to come forward. Of course, it’ll just take a few minutes to warm up when you’ve freed your drink from the freezer.

  DO be careful handling very cold bottles; you may want to wrap them in a dish towel before opening them to protect your hands from sticking to the glass.

  Since the drinks in this book are diluted in advance (so you don’t have to shake or stir them), some may turn slushy or even solid after more than a few hours in the freezer. I usually store mixed cocktails in the fridge, then move the bottle to the freezer one or two hours before serving if I want it colder. If you lose track of time and find yourself with a slushy cocktail in a bottle, don’t panic; just move it to the fridge or let it warm on your counter a bit before serving.

  WHAT TO ADD WHEN

  With this book in hand, you won’t have to stand behind a rickety card table shaking drinks to order, since everything is made ahead. But because there are some ingredients that shouldn’t be added to a cocktail too far in advance, I’ve noted timing in each recipe.

  You can generally mix together your booze, properly cooled syrups, water, and bitters a day or two before serving (storing the well-sealed pitcher in your refrigerator), but you’ll notice that I’ve recommended waiting to squeeze and add most fresh juices until just a f
ew hours before the first drink is poured. I know that it’s more convenient to make juice the night before, but even in the fridge, citrus juice that sits too long suffers from oxygen exposure. (Orange juice is the most delicate of the bunch; grapefruit tastes good a little longer.) I want these drinks to stay tasty throughout your gathering, so I tend to err on the safe side. Of course, a drink won’t spontaneously combust if you juice your citrus six hours before serving, but why not shoot for drinks that will taste their best? Because the mixture can separate, be sure to stir your batch very well—or seal the bottle and turn it gently end over end—before serving.

  To preserve fizz, be sure to thoroughly chill any sodas or sparkling wines and wait to add them to the mix when your guests arrive.

  Most of you probably just want cocktails ready for happy hour tonight or tomorrow, but if you’re interested in experimenting with long-aged cocktails, I’ve shared more recommendations and tips on this page.

  HOW TO MAKE BLOCK ICE

  Cocktail nerds get a little fanatical about ice, and the internet abounds with advice about how to make crystal-clear blocks. If you’re into that sort of thing, I recommend Camper English’s blog, Alcademics, where he experiments with various techniques, including freezing large blocks of ice in an open insulated Igloo cooler so it freezes from the top down. If you have an extra freezer on hand, it’s a good party trick. For the rest of us, there are basically two options: Buy fancy ice from a bar, store, or ice company that makes nice blocks, or make something passable using a Bundt pan or Tupperware-type container that will fit inside your serving vessel. If you’d like to decorate your ice with herbs, berries, or citrus, you can follow Clyde Common bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler’s advice and weigh down your designs with some crushed or cubed ice, then fill with water and freeze. Do all this a day in advance so that you can be certain your ice is well frozen.